Iraq EP6 世界最豪華清真寺？伊拉克第三大聖城 導遊「穆斯林不等於恐怖份子」 Visit Imam Ali Shrine, Najaf Iraq

怡富（主持人）：我現在就來到伊拉克什葉派第三大聖城納傑夫（Najaf），這個地方對什葉派而言十分重要，因為是他們先知阿里的清真寺，所以你見到無論早午晚都很多人！

Yifu:I am now at Najaf---The third holy site for Shia Iraqis.This place is very important for them because it is the mosque of Prophet Ali, so you can see many people here all day long!

怡富（主持人）：我現在去了一個本地市場，打算買一些穆斯林日常衣著，再走入清真寺。或者大家不太認識穆斯林，希望透過這條影片呈現給大家看！

Yifu:I am now going to a local market wanting to buy some daily Muslim clothes before entering the mosque.Maybe you are not so familiar with Muslim, hope you can understand more through this video!

怡富（主持人）：伊斯蘭教的信徒稱為穆斯林，他們信奉的神稱為「阿拉」，他們一生人要去一次沙地阿拉伯的聖城麥加朝聖。麥加是先知穆罕默德出生地，亦都是天房所在地---他們認為最神聖既地方。而第二大聖城麥地拿就是埋葬穆罕默德的地方。

Yifu:People who follow Islam are called Muslims, and “Allah” is the Arabic word for “God”.They try to make a pilgrimage to Makkah.The holy city in Saudi Arabia at least once in their life.Mecca is the birthplace of Prophet Muhammad and the Kaaba locates there too---It is the holiest place for Muslims.Medina is the second holiest city where Muhammad’s grave located.

導遊：「這款衣服對吧？」
The guide:This kind of clothes right？

怡富（主持人）：「有點窄身。」
Yifu:It is a bit tight

導遊：「照照鏡吧！非常合適！」
The guide:Look at the mirror, it suits you!

怡富（主持人）：「這很高質吧? 」是棉花
I think this is with high quality?

導遊：「是棉花！」
The guide:It’s cotton!

怡富（主持人）：「怎樣清洗呢？」
Yifu: How can I wash it?

導遊：「掉入清洗機。這是我們其中一款傳統服飾，你可以在家穿著，有專為家居而設的款式；然後有較好看的可以外出穿著---特別是當你去清真寺祈禱，逢星期五我們都會穿！」
The guide:Wash it in the washing machine.This is one of our Arabic traditional dresses, you can wear it at home.There is a special one for home, and there is a better look one for you to wear outside---especially when you are going to the mosque for praying, every Friday we wear like this!

怡富（主持人）：去清真寺前都要洗淨你的心靈！清潔你的身體有幾個步驟要做，希望我記得，示範一次給大家看：口，三次，鼻子、臉、右手、右手、你的頭髮。

You need to clear your mind before entering the mosque!There are a few steps to clean your body.Hope I can remember and demonstrate to you:The mouth for 3 times, nose, face, right hand, left hand, your hair.

怡富（主持人）：「你好，你從哪裡來？」
Yifu:Hello, where are you from?

導遊：「她來自巴比倫省。」
The guide:She is from Babil Governorate.

怡富（主持人）：「那她為何遠道而來？」
Yifu:Why did she come from so far away?

導遊：「為了得到阿里的祝福！」
The guide:To get the blessing from Ali!

怡富（主持人）：這些水是乾淨的，所有人都會在這取水喝，所以你入來真的甚麼都不用帶或者不准你帶。

The water is clean here, everyone drinks it.So you do not need to bring anything here or they don't allow you to.

導遊：「綠色這些是神的名字，阿拉；裡面黃色的，是先知阿里的名字，所以這些是阿里。」
The guide ：The green one is the name of the god, Allah;The yellow one inside is the name of Imam Ali, so this is Ali.

怡富（主持人）：他說很常見人們會坐在這吃飯聊天，而且這清真寺都是二十四小時開放，所以很多朝聖者可能很晚才到或幾點來都可以隨時進來。這兒全都安排周到，風扇有水(去散熱)、鞋櫃可以放東西，進來時相機要放在儲物櫃，不能拍給大家看。

Yifu; He said it is common that people eat and chat here.This mosque opens for 24 hours so many pilgrims may arrive late and they can come anytime.This place is well designed:The fans have water vapor coming out (to cool down),you can put things inside the shoe cabinet.I need to put my camera inside the locker so I can’t use it to shoot.

怡富（主持人）：由於先知穆罕默德死後沒有指定繼承人，遜尼派認為繼承人應由選舉產生，什葉派就認為應由有血緣關係的人繼承，而第三任哈里法奧斯曼被刺殺就成為兩派的導火線。穆罕默德女婿阿里成為第四任哈里發，他的支持者及後成為什葉派，遜尼派奧斯曼的堂弟當時不順服阿里，爆出皇位爭奪戰。

Yifu: Since Muhammad did not assign an heir before his death.Sunni thinks that he should be selected through election while the Shia believes that he should be with the same bloodline.The assassination of the third caliph Uthman became the final straw triggering the conflicts between the two main sects.Muhammad’s son-in-law, Ali, became the 4th caliph.His supporters became Shia Uthman’s cousin, dissatisfied with Ali competed for the throne.

怡富（主持人）：我們去了媒體中心問，最後都是不能拍到清真寺入面。有些位置可以拍，但如果接近墓地是不能拍的，所以我們都希望大家明白！因為先知阿里對伊斯蘭教而言真的很重要。

We asked the media center but we still cannot shoot the inside of the mosque.We can shoot at some places but if it is too close to the tomb, it’s forbidden, so we hope you can understand that.Ali is extremely important to Muslims.

怡富（主持人）：這是女性專用的出入口。

Yifu: This is a women-only entrance.

怡富（主持人）：這是他們平時祈禱的地方，我第一次來，感覺跟所有香港人一樣很驚訝！因為你見到裝飾華麗堂皇，你想像不到這個地方原來是伊拉克！

Yifu: It is where they pray.When I first arrived here.Like all HK people,I was surprised.When you see the elegant decorations here ,you cannot imagine that this is Iraq!

怡富（主持人）：這地方再重申三次，很重要！對穆斯林而言、特別是什葉派，這地方是第三大聖城---是一個很重要很重要的清真寺。伊斯蘭教徒每天要祈禱五次：不論在任何位置，方向對著麥加的天房，他們每次祈禱都做要rak'ah (開端章)。每次來朝聖都有指定動作，我嘗試做給大家看：耳朵、手臂...

Yifu: May I reaffirm for the third time, to Muslims, especially Shia, this is the third holiest city and it is an extremely important mosque.Muslims need to pray five times a day no matter where you are.You need to face the Kaaba at Mecca when praying.They need to do the rak'ah in every prayer.There are a set of prescribed movements, let me show you:Ears, arms...

導遊：「不是的，右手在左手上方，你將雙手放在膝上然後向下。」
The guide:No, right on the left.Put your hands on the knees and then you go down.

怡富（主持人）：每個時段都有規定做不同的開端章（rak'ah)。他們站著時會頌讀可蘭經的章節，希望受到阿拉的祝福。
Yifu: Different sets of rak’ah are required in different periods.They read aloud chapters from the Quran when they are standing, hope to get blessings from Allah.

導遊：「「伊斯蘭」這個字的意義：它是阿拉伯文，指的是將靈魂交給神，所以我們說伊斯蘭教不是為了穆斯林，是全人類！因為如果你是基督徒，你將你的靈魂交給神都是實行伊斯蘭的意義。」
The guide:The meaning of Islam:It’s an Arabic word.It means the submission of the soul to the God.So we say Islam is not for the Muslims, it’s for the whole of humankind.Because if you are a Christian, and you submit your soul to the God, it means you are following Islam.

怡富（主持人）：我現在去納傑夫（Najaf)---全世界最大的墓地。這個地方跟我之前去印度很相似，人們把遺體送到過個地方，在阿里清真寺內圍一圈才安葬。這地方非常神聖，所以很多人選擇在這地方安葬。看到很多不同形式、大小的墓地，但因為真的太大，我看不到太多，純粹繞一圈給大家看看。

Yifu:I am now going to the cemetery of Najaf---the largest cemetery in the world.This place is similar to the one in India.People will deliver the bodies to this place, circle around the mosque before burial.This place is very sacred, many people choose to be buried here.I saw different kinds of graves of different sizes, but it’s too big, I can’t see them all,so I will just take a walk a show you.

怡富（主持人）：這個軍官在ISIS入侵時期過身。如果想在這埋葬，大概付10,000IQD第納爾，即7美金，他會幫你挖個洞，可以將你的親人及朋友在此埋葬，不會有任何其他收費。

This officer passed away during the invasion of ISIS.If you want to be buried here,you need to pay around 10,000IQD, 7USD.They will dig a hole so that you can be buried here without other charges.

怡富（主持人）：之後我們去了什葉派第四大聖城卡爾巴拉（Karbala）---分別是阿里兩個兒子：哈參 (Hassan) 以及侯賽因 (Hussin) 的墓地。第四任哈里發阿里在661年被刺殺後，又再一次爆發皇位爭奪戰。當時阿里兒子侯賽因---即是先知穆罕默德個孫，在一次遠征期間被敵人埋伏殺害，因此兩派有血海深仇。

Yifu:Later we went to Karbala, the fourth holiest city of Shia---The graves of Ali’s sons, Hassan and Hussin are located in this city.In 661, after the assassination of the fourth caliph, Ali, people once again scrambled for the throne.Ali’s son Hussin which is the grandson of Muhammad was ambushed and killed by enemies during an expedition.Therefore the two sects have a blood feud.

怡富（主持人）：這個清真寺外很多專業的龍友幫你拍照！你沒有相機，龍友會用長鏡幫你拍照！為甚麼人們穿黑色衣服？

Yifu: There are many professional photographers outside the mosque to help you take photos!
If you don’t have a camera, they will shoot for you using a long lens!Why are people wearing in black color?

受訪者：「是一種悼念，他們為Hussin被殺而傷心，所以他們穿黑色罩衣。如果你家族的一員過世，你都會穿黑色。」
Interviewee:It's a meaning of sorrow, they are sad about the murder of Hussin. So they wear a black gown.Even if one of your family members died, you will dress in black color too.

怡富（主持人）：好像一個平行時空...當你在香港全部都在戴口罩，別人在室內已經生活如常。我看過伊拉克官方的感染人數，每天都是1,000多個，所以又真的不太多。但你真的見到這兒全部都是人，而且戴口罩的比例應該是十個都沒有一個

Yifu:It’s like a parallel universe...While HK people are still wearing masks every day, other people are already living their normal life.I searched for the number of infected cases in Iraq.It’s about 1000 per day so it’s not many indeed.But as you can see, there are many people here and nearly none of them are wearing masks.

怡富（主持人）：入清真寺的指定動作是除鞋 ，有位寄存。為甚麼要摸摸門口？

Yifu: You must take off your shoes when you get inside a mosque.There is a place to store it.Why do they touch the door?

導遊：「希望受到祝福。」
The guide:To get the blessings.

導遊：「我在費盧傑跟你就說有伊瑪目為人講道，他會在那兒教導信徒關於伊斯蘭教的文化。」
The guide:I told you in Fallujah that the Imam will speak lectures for the people.He goes there and lectures people about Islam, about the way of living.

怡富（主持人）：這就是侯賽因的墓地，你見到所有伊斯蘭信眾要親吻他們的聖人，他們在想甚麼呢？
This is the grave of Hussin. You can see every Muslim kisses the saint.What are they thinking right now?

導遊：「希望得到祝福。」
The guide:They are thinking to take some blessings from Hussin.

怡富（主持人）：「我看到疫情下一些影片，他們認為墓地有治癒的作用。」
Yifu: I saw some video that due to the pandemic, they think it can heal or something.

怡富（主持人）：我去過費盧傑由遜尼派主導的清真寺與摩蘇爾裝修相對美觀的清真寺，對比阿里及兩個兒子的清真寺規模，簡直是小巫見大巫！

Yifu: I visited a mosque led by Sunni in Fallujah and a more elegant mosque in Mosul.Compare with the mosque of Ali and his sons, the two are pale in comparison!

導遊：「但對我而言祈禱用的清真寺不需要太華麗，因為你要敬畏你的神、不需要華麗的東西令你分心，你會被這些裝飾影響，然後忘了對神的敬重。」
The guide:In my opinion, there’s no need to have a fancy mosque to pray because you have to submit to your God.You don’t need fancy things to distract you.You will embrace the fancy decoration and forget your submission to God.

怡富（主持人）：「人們對穆斯林有很多誤解，你怎麼看？」
Yifu:People usually have so many misunderstandings towards Muslims.How do you think?

導遊：「這是媒體的問題。傳達給外國人或其他國家的訊息，當你提到穆斯林或阿拉伯國家，外國人立即想到他們是恐怖分子等，他們會進行炸彈襲擊，但這不是真的。因為伊斯蘭教是世上唯一的宗教，可蘭經是世上唯一的經卷，提到如果你殺了一個人，你等於殺了全人類。所以如ISIS、阿爾蓋達等，他們裝作是穆斯林，但他們也不是。因為他們殺害人，有很多炸彈襲擊。「伊斯蘭」的其他意思是和平，我們的先知穆罕默德說：聖城麥加的天房，對所有穆斯林是最重要的建築。如果你用任何方法令其倒下，比殺一個人更容易。」
The guide:It’s a problem with the media.They transfer the thoughts towards Islam to foreigners.When you are talking about Muslims or ArabicForeigners immediately think that they are terrorists, they are doing bomb attacks.It’s not the truth because Islam is the only religion in the world. And Quran is the only book in the world which has verses in it saying that if you killed one man, you killed all human beings.For example, ISIS or Al Qaeda, They pretend that they are Muslims but they are not.Because they are killing people.They are doing bomb attacks.The other meaning of Islam is peaceful.Our prophet Muhammad said:The Kaaba in Mecca is the most important architecture for all Muslims.So the prophet said:If you take it down to the ground is easier than killing any person.

導遊：「不論你信伊斯蘭、天主教、基督教，讓天房倒下比殺人容易，你可知道對伊斯蘭教而言殺人是多麼恐怖的事，是嚴格禁止的。如在第二次世界大戰時有多少人死亡？單在俄羅斯已有400萬人死亡，是誰做的？穆斯林嗎？不是！你可以見到伊斯蘭教沒有參與二戰。」
The guide:No matter he is a Muslim, Catholic, or Christian, it is easier to take down the building than kill one person.So you see how awful it is.To kill a soul or a person in Islam is much forbidden.For example, during the second world war, how many people died.Nearly 4 million died only in Russia.Who did this? Muslims? No!You can see Islam was not there.We did not participate in the second world war.

怡富（主持人）：雖然你不是穆斯林，但你依然可以參觀清真寺！一場來到什葉派第三大聖城納傑夫（Najaf），我當然會感受清真寺以外的本地市場！

Yifu: Even though you are not a Muslim, you can still visit the mosque.Visiting the Shia’s third holiest city, Najaf, Of course I won’t miss the local market!

導遊：「你可以塗在頸上！」
The guide:You can put it on your neck!

商家：「歡迎你來納傑夫！希望你將來會回來！可以你吃午飯，我的家隨時歡迎你！」
Shopkeeper:Welcome to Najaf!Please come again with your friends!I can have lunch with you!
And take you to my home!

商家：「我把手放在頭上，是一個尊重、你看到納傑夫人的真誠吧！」
Shopkeeper:I put my hand on the head for respect,You can see the generosity of Najaf people!

導遊：「這是納傑夫最有名的糖果！」
The guide:This is the most famous sweet in Najaf

怡富（主持人）：「哪個？」
Yifu :Which one?

導遊：「這個。」
The guide:This one, Daheenah.

怡富（主持人）：「它是甚麼造的？」
Yifu：Daheenah , What is it made of?

導遊：「麵粉、糖、特製的油，動物油」
The guide:Sugar, flour, a special oil, animal oil

怡富（主持人）：你就這樣看，好像麻糬！試試Daheenah！很甜但好吃！面頭有炸過的椰絲，但你好像在放糖入口。這個就放了忌廉，我個人較喜歡有忌廉的，因為沒那麼甜。伊斯蘭教徒喜歡黃金嗎?

Yifu: It looks like mochi, let’s try it!It's sweet, but it's good.It has some deep fried shredded coconut on top.It's like putting sugar inside your mouth.This one is with cream,I like this one more because it’s not that sweetly.Do Muslims like gold?

導遊：「是的，特別是女性。在伊拉克人們很喜歡黃金，當你要結婚，你應該買很多黃金做賀禮。」
The guide:Yes, especially women.Iraqi love golds so much,If you want to get married.You should buy a lot of golds.

怡富（主持人）：「有很多籽」
Yifu: There are so many seeds.

導遊：「他說是天然的。」
The guide:He said is natural.

怡富（主持人）：這是很多渣的葡萄汁，好喝，喝完覺得更口乾，所以真材實料！

Yifu: This is a grape juice with much residue.It tastes good, but you feel more thirsty after drinking it.So it’s a real thing!